Ferrata Terzulli

Introduction:

The Ferrata Terzulli is an aided itinerary that connects the Val Miller with the Adamello Pass. The ferrata is usually inserted into the Adamello ascent. The via ferrata is relatively easy but it is inserted in a high mountain context with a strong mountaineering character and therefore reserved for hikers who are experts in via ferrata and high altitude environments. Obviously it is advised to travel it only with stable weather.

Starting location:

The starting point of the itinerary is the clearing that we will find near a bridge over the Romulo stream along the road to Val Malga. To get there, take the Val Camonica road and exit it following the signs for Garda. As we approach Garda we will reach an intersection where two roads branch off uphill from the road that connects Zazza to Rino. One proceeds towards Garda, the other one marked with brown signs indicates the Val Malga. We follow all the way to the clearing on the bridge where we park (1528 m).

Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

From the parking lot, continue over the bridge along the dirt road that leads to Malga Premassone. From the Malga we proceed along path 23 passing Malga Frino (1698 m) and then we go up the Val Miller. This path goes up the famous Miller Stairs which are a series of rocky steps to climb (with short aided sections). Pass the Miller Stairs (2050 m) we have come to the place from which they take their name: Val Miller. We continue along the path that in a semicircle leads us to the Rifugio Gnutti (2166 m - 1h 30 'from the parking lot).

We start from the hut with the Miller dam on our right. We continue uphill and graft to the right following path 23 along Lake Miller. We continue along path 23 paying attention to the so-called Pantano Miller, an area bathed by many streams that makes progression a bit difficult. We go up the well-marked path, which is always more rocky, crossing some tongues of snow even in late season. The route climbs the basin until it leads to the start of the Terzulli Ferrata (2930 m - 2h from Rifugio Gnutti - 3h 30 'total).

Via Ferrata:

The Terzulli Ferrata is a ferrata aided with a chain in some sections and will lead us to the Adamello Pass. The ferrata starts going up a short edge and after a few meters we reach a first terrace where we change the carabiners on a new chain and continue the vertical climb gaining meters and exposure. The rock in this section is compact and offers the possibility of climbing even if smooth. After this first fairly vertical wall we reach a stretch where the chain ends and we go up an exposed small path and rocks. The via ferrata continues with a diagonal section to the left and then again with a more marked slope but without technical difficulties worthy of note. Continuing along the climb we reach a stretch where the equipment ends and we follow the white-red signs, the cairns and the uphill track.

We now come under a sloping slab where the chains start again. We first climb it in a straight line then bending to the right until the end of the chain. We follow an earthy ledge up to an exposed crosspiece aided with chain. We pass the traverse and go up a short slab that leads us under some rocky leaps and the equipment ends leaving us just below the Adamello Pass (3240 m - 1h from the start - 4h 30 'total). At this point you can admire a stretch of the Adamello Glacier below us in a northerly direction.

At this point we descend for a few meters towards the ice which we will follow, remaining on its left edge with on our left the Ugolini Shelter and the Cima del Laghetto. The conditions of the glacier must be measured on the spot but the slope is not marked. However, crampons and ice axes are recommended. It comes out gradually from the ice and we have to go up the last three hundred meters with some rocks (1st degree) until we reach the steep west ridge. We will keep the ridge until we reach a path with small jumps and exposed but not difficult sections to the bell and to the summit cross (1h 30 'from the Adamello Pass - 6h total).

Descent:

The descent follows the same ascent itinerary including the climbing of the Terzulli Ferrata. You could go down the normal route but it is a different itinerary that definitely requires a night out.

Descending from the path traveled uphill, we must take into consideration the length (3h 30 'to reach the Rifugio Gnutti) and some steep and exposed sections. Once at the shelter, the difficulties are reduced a lot and occur only at the Miller Stairs beyond which there are the last kilometers of a long and wonderful trip before reaching the car (1h 30 'from the hut - 5h from the summit - 11h total) ).

Notes:

The Ferrata Terzulli will not present any technical difficulties for those who already have good experience of via ferrata. The rock is good although not always full of holds. The difficulties of this trip are in the environment, the length, the height difference and the altitude. There is talk of one of the most iconic peaks of our Alpine arc, and the panorama will leave anyone who ascends in awe. Particular attention should be paid to the descent being long, exhausting and at times steep and exposed (in particular the ridge from the summit to the glacier and some sections of the ferrata).

We recommend crampons and ice equipment for the Pian di Neve and it is probably advisable to break the route in two days by spending the night at the comfortable Rifugio Gnutti from which in 2 hours we will reach the start of the via ferrata.

Opportunities:

The itinerary of the Ferrata Terzulli at the top of the Adamello is an alpine trip where the via ferrata is a component of a much more varied mountain experience. If you wanted to stay in the upper Val Camonica for other trips, you could opt to go further south and take the challenging route Ferrata to the Corno di Grevo or the Ferrata at Pizzo Badile Camuno. Going up the valley instead, you can go in the direction of the Passo del Tonale where you can walk the Ferrata al Sentiero dei Fiori. Finally coming down from the Trentino side one could evaluate the Ferrata del Monte Nero for the Presanella. Those proposed in this paragraph are all medium-difficult routes in a high mountain environment where both mountain and climbing experience is required. Moving instead on the South Tyrolean side, we could travel the difficult Ferrata Tabaretta or the Ferrata to the Croda of Cengles.