Via Ferrata di Volturara Irpina

Introduction:

The Via Ferrata of Volturare Irpina (also known as Ferrata di Maroia) is the first certified via ferrata in Campania and it was installed in 2019. The itinerary climbs a beautiful rock wall aided also with grags and some multipitche routes that make a pleasant trip all around. Specifically, the via ferrata offers an easy level basic route, a moderately difficult variant and a very difficult variant with some overhangs to be tackled with a certain athletic spirit. The route develops in a very beautiful context and in an area that is generally out of the touristy destinations and therefore absolutely to be discovered.

Starting location:

The starting point of the itinerary is the center of the village of Volturara Irpina in the province of Avellino. Coming from Avellino, follow the state road 7 and enter the village. From the center of the town the wall on which the route develops is clearly visible towards the south-east. Park in the center and then follow in the direction of the obvious wall.

Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

From the center of the village we walk towards the wall reaching the intersection between Via Sibilla, Via Candragone and Via Pasquale de Feo. From there we will notice a small road that continues towards the wall. We follow the signs, ignoring the multipitch routes on the left, and continue straight towards the via ferrata which starts on the left after a few meters (10 'from the town center).

Via Ferrata:

La Ferrata si sviluppa sulla parete ovest del Monte Costa e offre 3 possibili percorsi con una via di fuga dopo il primo tratto. A questo un'immagine esplicativa.

BLUE PATH

This route can be classified as "Easy" and includes two obligatory sections: the beginning and the end of the via ferrata. The road begins with a ramp to the right that leads us to the base of a very jagged edge to be nicely climbed using many natural holds present to then go down a couple of meters to the left on an easy and exposed traverse with a beautiful view of the underlying village. We walk this beautiful passage using the supports for the feet and we reach the momentary end of the equipment.

To the right the red and black paths continue. The blue path instead continues to the left on a path that goes up into the woods. In this section we find an escape route. If we continue uphill on the path we will meet again the aided section to conclude the via ferrata with a series of ledges and easy jumps that lead us to the summit ridge where the via ferrata ends.

RED ROUTE (Ferrata Maroia)

From the crossroads with the blue path we keep the right along awide earthy ledge. We will reach the black route attack (description below) and we ignore it until we reach the sign indicating the red route beginning. We initially climb to the left on some easy steps and, after a few meters which are not difficult and vertical, we begin a demanding diagonal traverse to the right. The traverse alternates well aided sections with a couple of more delicate points where the rope will help. We therefore reach a overhanging stretch: the cable starts vertically and will need an athletic jump, however not very difficult, to overtake the bulging. We continue now on beautiful compact rock to the right and then vertically. This part begins to offer a beautiful exposure and some challenging but pleasant passages. We continue until we reach an earthy terrace where the black path joins from the left. Now the route becomes less demanding and with a beautiful vertical progression you will join the blue path with which we will finish the via ferrata.

BLACK PATH (Variante del Mulo)

As indicated above, the black path starts on the ledge where the blue and red path divide. The route is short but athletic and should not be underestimated. The beginning is free of significant difficulties. We go up a first jump and then a ledge to the right until we start the difficult part of the route. We climb a series of challenging walls that lead us to a difficult vertical cliff. The overhanging part is of a pair of hooks but the absence of holds and the overhang advise us to proceed quickly and decisively so as not to stress more the arms. We leave the overhang and still face some difficult passages before joining the red path with which we will then continue on the way.

Descent:

From the end of the via ferrata follow the signs CAI 145 and 145a which in about 20 minutes lead back to the town center. If we choose to go down to the left (north) we will go down into the woods until we reach the ledge of the via ferrata attack; or we can go down to the right (south) and reach the narrow streets of the village (2h total).

Notes:

The route is recent and the equipment is in excellent condition. As indicated in the report we have 3 different routes suitable for different preparation levels. For the black variant it is advisable to bring one quickdraw to simulate a stop and avoid being in trouble if the forces were lacking.

Opportunities:

The Via Ferrata di Volturara is the first real via ferrata installed in Campania. To reach other via ferratas you can move north or south:

• to the south you can follow the via ferratas of Basilicata: the Belvedere, theArenazzo, the Salemm and the Marcirosa as well as going to the Pollino Park to walk the Via Ferrata at the Caldanello Gorge.
• to the north we recommend the Gran Sasso with le Ferrate Ricci, Danes, Ventricini, Brizio and Bafile.