Aided path dell'Ideale

Introduction:

The Aided path of the Ideal is a majestic path that extends under the Cima d'Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites. This trip is generally accomplished or as a link between the XII Apostoli and Agostini shelters or as a continuation of the Brentari Ferrata linking the Pedrotti Hut to the Agostini. A necessary clarification is on the name of the itinerary. Although this route is historically called an aided path, it would be more appropriate to call it Ferrata dell'Ideale, given the type of ascent and vertical and exposed sections to be covered.

Starting location:

The starting point of the itinerary of the Path of the Ideal depends on the direction in which we want to follow this stupendous itinerary. As already indicated above, the Aided path of the Ideal can be covered with 3 starting points: Rifugio XII Apostoli, Rifugio Agostini or Rifugio Pedrotti (as a continuation of the Ferrata Brentari). In this report we propose as a starting point the XII Apostles Hut and then Pinzolo as a point of arrival by car. The starting point of the itinerary is the top station of the cable car from Pinzolo to the Doss del Sabion. Once in Pinzolo from the SS239 from Trento we will see the ski lifts on the right and a large parking lot on the left. We leave the car there and head for the cable car. Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

The stretch of path that connects the top station of the cable car with the XII Apostoli Hut is a simple, sometimes well-aided path, also known as Aided path of the Scala Santa (3h from the top station of the cable car to the hut).

Via Ferrata:

Departing from the XII Apostoli Hut we proceed in an easterly direction towards the Bocchetta dei Camosci following the CAI 307. We go up a not particularly difficult path with a steep slope on a detrital surface. We reach an uphill valley where in front of us there is the impressive Vedretta d'Agola. We continue on the path that goes up the moraine on the left side and after some stretches of ledges, rocks and short aided rocky jumps we come to Bocchetta dei Camosci (2784 m -1h from Rifigio XII Apostoli).

From the Bocchetta dei Camosci we will have a wonderful view of the underlying Vedretta of the same name with the impressive Cima Tosa straight to us and to the right the Cima d'Ambiez. We continue following the indications for the Path of the Ideal that climbs diagonally towards the Bocca d'Ambiez whose snow-covered language will be noticed going down following the right profile of Cima Tosa. We ignore on the left the track that goes down towards the Martinazzi Monteain Trail (CAI 327) towards the Rifugio Brentari. We will hold the right to start the real Aided path of the Ideal. We walk diagonally north-northeast going up the Vedretta until it comes out after a rather steep section (useful crampons) in an upward traverse section where the state of the snow changes according to the season. We face a series of aided sections that are not difficult to diagonally to the right. Let's face one now we find a metal ladder and shortly after a series of metal steps with which we quickly gain share. We ignore a new one crossroads for the Sentiero Martinazzoli. Let's face one vertical wall but very well placed that puts us on a ramp aided with which we slowly gain the last meters beyond which we are at Bocca d'Ambiez (2870 m - 30 'from Bocchetta dei Camosci - 1h 30' from Rifugio XII Apostoli).

Now we begin the downhill stretch that from Bocca d'Ambiez will take us first to the homonymous hermitage and then to the Agostini Hut. The descent does not present particular technical difficulties, mainly taking place on well-spaced stretches of rocks or on vertical walls with good natural and artificial supports. It must be said that this stretch is exposed and extends in an area where debris can fall so it is absolutely recommended to have a helmet and proceed quickly. We go down what is generally called Sentiero del Cege (in honor of Cesare Salvaterra). Once down these aided sections we find ourselves in Vedretta d'Ambiez (2800 m - 30 'from Bocchetta d'Ambiez - 2h from Rifugio XII Apostoli).

From here we descend along the Vedretta in the direction of the junction for the Ferrata Brentari (CAI 358) which leads to the Pedrotti Hut. From the crossroads we descend towards the Agostini Hut, cutting the glacier again following some singular red stakes. We face the last easy sections aided with rocks to go downhill. We come to the crossroads where on the right you can take the path that leads to the Ferrata Castiglioni. Continuing straight downhill we reach the Agostini Hut (30 'from the crossroads with Brentari - 2h 30' from Rifugio XII Apostoli - 5h 30 'total).

Descent:

From the Agostini Hut the return to the XII Apostoli Hut and then to the cable car is in two directions:

• backwards for the Aided path of the Ideal to the XII Apostoli Hut (2h 30 'from the Agostini Hut).
• Walking along the Ferrata Castiglioni which always leads us to the XII Aposoli Hut (2h 30 ') passing through the Bocca dei Due Denti with a path generally with fewer snowy or icy stretches.

Once at the XII Apostoli Hut, go along the Aided path of the Scala Santa downhill to the top station of the cable car that will take us back to Pinzolo (2h 30 'from the XII Apostles - 5h from the End of the Aided path of the Ideal - 10h 30' total) .

Notes:

The Aided path of the Ideal extends in a grandiose environment and crosses the Vedretta of the same name in the stretch under Bocca d'Ambiez as well as in the opposite side of the Bocca d'Ambiez the glacier of the Chamois. In these sections crampons and axes are absolutely recommended for safe crossing. Beware of ice and glass that can be found near the Bocca d'Ambiez. The equipment is good and has been recently renovated.

Opportunities:

As anticipated in the introduction, the Aided path of the Ideal can also be followed as a logical continuation of the Ferrata Brentari in a long and stupendous itinerary that connects the Rifugio Pedrotti with Rifugio XII Apostoli (5h the combination of the two routes).

Another alternative to combine an aided route is once you reach the Agostini Hut to take the Aided path Apolloni to reach the Rifugio Pedrotti. Once at the Pedrotti, one could undertake various aided routes among which surely stand out Ferrate delle Bocchette Alte and Centrali. In this case it is certainly advisable to stay overnight in one of the mountain huts.

Moving instead to the north, the ferrata of the Brenta Dolomites which we suggest are the Ferrata Benini, the Ferrata of the Val Gelada, the Sosat Trail and Aided path Vidi.

Further info:

• Looking for an Alpine Guide to climb this route? We have selected some Guides specialized in Vie Ferrate, click here.
• Are you at the first experience in Via Ferrata? Read ours Complete Guide to Via Ferratas.
• Join our community on Facebook: the Official Ferrate365 page and Group to find climb partners.
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