Review of the Aided path Leva connecting the Cima di Terrarossa with the Forca dei Disteis under the Jof di Montasio. Itinerary starting from the Montasio slabau, passing by the Rifugio Brazza and ascending to Cima Terrarossa. Long path for ledge and loop return. Medium difficulty itinerary. Beware of unprotected sections.
The starting point of the itinerary is located in the Montasio Plateau in a large parking lot that runs along the road that connects Malga Montasio with the village of Sella Nevea in the province of Udine. To reach Sella Nevea you must reach the town of Chiusaforte, located 20 minutes from the Carnia Tolmezzo exit in the A23. Once in Chiusaforte follow the signs for Sella Nevea towards the east. We pass the bridge and drive 20 km to the village. Once in the village, near a hairpin bend follow the brown sign for Altopiano del Montasio and follow the road until the end. Directions for Google Maps available here.
The itinerary proposed in this report includes the Leva Aided path and the climb to the Cima di Terrarossa but does not include the climb to the Jof di Montasio. If you are interested in the climb the Jof di Montasio see the report of the Ferrata Amalia. We also present the aided path in the east (Cima Terrarossa) - west (Forca dei Disteis) because in this direction we walk up the most vertical section near the Forca del Palone.
Leave the car in the parking lot (1500 m) and follow the dirt road to the right which leads us to Rifugio Brazzà (1660 m - 30 'from the parking lot) in modest climb. We are now immersed in the green fields under the walls of the Jof di Montasio group. We climb following the path towards the rocky walls up to a first junction. Following the signs we keep to the right the path both for the Aided Leva Path and the Aided path Ceria Merlone ignoring on the left the indications for the Jof di Montasio.
Let's go up now initially on lawns then on pebbles and gravel towards the steep walls of the Cima di Terrarossa reaching a crossroads (2285 m - 1h 15 'from Rifugio Brazzà - 1h 45' total): on the right continue along the aided path Ceria Merlone, on the left we go up to Cima di Terrarossa. We keep to the left and in 15 'we reach the Cima di Terrarossa (2420 m - 2h from the parking lot) where we begin the aided path Augusto and Elenita Leva.
The first part of the route is to go down to the Forca del Pallone. The descent is mainly along a path with no difficulty. We go down a singular metallic staircase leaning against the rock on which pay attention and we are on one aided ledge that, going around the west wall of Cima Terrarossa, leads us to the Forcella the Balloon (2242 m - ca 20 'from the top of Terrarossa). Already on this side of the gorge can be seen on the opposite side the ledge that cuts the wall and that we will follow in the continuation.
We cross the saddle and now we begin the probably most technical section of the route. After a short stretch of ledge we need to gain altitude reaching a ledge above the current one. To reach it we will have to go up a couple of vertical walls and a chimney. The stroke on the chimney vertical salt tight between two sides of the mountain. The recent re-equipment of the route has added many useful metal brackets which considerably reduce the difficulties of this passage. We climb a well-secured vertical wall and reach a ledge with clearly visible shoulders behind it Cima di Terrarossa and right below us the great Montasio Plateau.
We leave the inlet of the gallows and Now let's start the longest part of the itinerary. We will have to travel one long series of ledges more or less wide e not always aided until you reach the path of the normal route ascending to the Jof di Montasio. The path is a succession of ledges and rocky roofs for short stretches separated with uphill and downhill sections. A pair of ledges I'm very exposed and narrow, at the limit of a traverse. The recent equipment, however, makes these steps safe. The environment is full of free animals and it is quite common to come across groups of ibexes. As we continue we have a wonderful corner on the King of the Julian - the Jof di Montasio - and as we approach the end of the route we see the Pepan ladder that goes up the normal route. Continuing on the path we reach the metal slab which indicates the end of the Leva Aided path (ca 2400 m - 1h 30 'from the top of Terrarossa).
A few meters above the crossroads you will see aided sections and a long metallic staircase (Pipan's Staircase) which is included in the ascent of the normal route to the Jof di Montasio. We continue on the path that leads us westwards without any particular difficulties to the Forca dei Distesis (2201 m). To the right the path of the Great Geng takes place, we keep the left in constant descent towards the slabau. Following the trail we cut across the meadows of the slabau and reach the hut. Back to the approach path we return to the car (1h 30 'from the end of the via ferrata - 3h from the start - 5h total).
The main difficulties of this itinerary are the exposed and unaided sections, mainly ledges. The aided sections are very scenic and adrenaline-filled but not difficult. The most challenging step from a technical point of view is at the beginning, near the Forca del Palone.
If traveled in the opposite direction it is possible to combine this itinerary also with the neighbor Aided path Ceria Merlone which, however, greatly lengthens the itinerary. If you have more days available, the climb to the Jof di Montasio is highly recommended Ferrata Amalia. Moving towards the Jof Fuart you meet the Ferrata Goitan and Aided path King of Saxony. On the opposite side of the Sella Nevea valley is the Ferrata Julia al Canin. Moving north towards the Mangart we meet the Ferrata della Vita and the Italian Ferrata of the Mangart Cliffs. From the Val Dogna side you can go up to Monte Cavallo with the long hike that includes the Ferrata Norina.
Approach: 2:00 h
Ferrata: 1:30 h
Itinerary: 5:00 h
Ferrata height difference: 178 m
Route difference: 918 m
Max altitude: 2420 m
Length: 9.1 Km
Mountain Group: Julian Alps