Review of the challenging trip to Monte Pelf in the Schiara Group by climbing the Marino Guardiano Aided path. The itinerary is very long and goes up to Forcella Marmol with the ferrata of the same name to then begin a second aided itinerary. Itinerary aided with moderate technical difficulties in the sections aided but exposed and not to be underestimated in the sections not aided both uphill and downhill. Ideal to be included in a multi-day itinerary.
For the trip of the Aided path Guardiano at Pelf it is necessary to reach Forcella Mormol which divides the Pelf from Cima Schiara. It is possible to take the itinerary from the south or from the north. In this report we describe the itinerary starting from the south, offering this itinerary the possibility of combining other via ferrata in a stupendous and challenging circular route.
The starting point of the itinerary is the village of Case Bortot in the province of Belluno. From Belluno we follow the regional road of Col di Lana and shortly after at a roundabout we follow on the right to Bolzano Bellunese and to the Parco delle Dolomiti Bellunesi. We keep the road past Bolzano Bellunesi, then Gioz and still on the same road we now meet the signs for the Case Bortot Hut. We continue on the road until we reach the town of Case Bortot where we pass the hut and after a few meters we meet an open space where it is possible to park with the road that ends. Directions for Google Maps available here.
The first goal of our approach from Case Bortot (695 m) is to reach Hut VII Alpini at the foot of the Schiara. Left the car in the parking, we cover the path with signpost 501 that will lead us to the shelter. The beginning is very pleasant on a wide path in the woods and clearly visible the Schiara and the Gusela del Vescovà on the left. We proceed along the path that descends to Ponte del Mariano (30 'from the parking lot) beyond which we meet a signposted junction: on the right rises the CAI 507 that we will use for the return from the Pelf. We remain on CAI 501 in the direction of the Hut. Now climb decisively into the woods and quickly gain altitude along the torrent Ardo. The climb takes place in large part in the sun and it is tiring although not difficult. We reach one series of hairpin bends where the valley opens. We go up this stretch and we are in the clearing where the VII Alpini Hut is located (1502 - 2h 45 'from the parking lot). The Rifugio VII Alpini is a crossroads of trails in the Schiara Group.
For this review we have to reach the Forcella Marmol and the most direct way is to travel up the Ferrata Piero Rossi (ex Ferrata Marmol). The Ferrata at the Forcella Marmol shares with Ferrata Zacchi the first section of the ferrata and then divides and climbs up the south-eastern slope of the Schiara. From the hut we will therefore have to reach thestart of the Ferrata Zacchi. We follow the signpost 503 starting behind the shelter in a northerly direction towards theimpressive rocky bastion of the Schiara. We follow the signs, we pass through to the characteristic Porton and we reach thestart of the Ferrata Zacchi (45 'from the hut - 3h 30' from the parking lot). We climb the first stretch of ferrata of about 100 meters until we reach the junction: on the left rises the Zacchi, we keep the right following the Piero Rossi with marker 514. We climb the via ferrata until we reach the Bocco Shelter - Zago (2266 m -. We pass it and follow the route only at times aided. We ignore the detour to the left for the summit of the Schiara and we continue towards north in an alternation of aided sections and path up to reach the Forcella del Marmol (2262 m - 3h from the start -6h 30 'from the parking lot).
We cross the Forcella del Marmol longitudinally where the Ferrata Piero Rossi ends and we begin on the opposite side of the saddle the Aided path Marino Guardiano. The climb to the Pelf is more vertical and aided in this first part and immediately face a couple of vertical passages, a traverse to the left and subsequently a new vertical section. The rock is good, full of holds and the equipment is in good condition. After about fifteen minutes of steps aided with good verticality, the metal equipment ends and we begin a stretch of path to the east. We continue along the stretch of path remaining just below the ridge on the north side (watch out for ice even in late season).
We reach a new aided section which brings us close to the ridge and appears in plain sight to us the Schiara on the opposite side of the saddle we have climbed. We continue in an ever never excessive climb towards the summit of the Pelf facing a aided stretch on rocks and aexposed ledge to the left. We go up a few meters and we are onlast section of the climb to the Pelf. This trait is certainly the most exciting and consists in an initially wide ridge route and not protected then aided in some aircraft passages. Let's go up to one saddle on bottom not too stable. We are at the final stages of the climb to the Pelf. We go up the last few meters on path and rocks reaching the spartan wooden cross placed on a big stone man (2502 m - 1h 30 'from the start at Forcella Marmol - 8h from the parking lot).
The trip to the Pelf with the Guardian Aided path is very long and the descent takes place for the long normal route with trail marker 511. Let's begin following the ridge to the east until you reach a long stretch of rocks in descent where it is necessary to pay maximum attention. We finish the challenging downhill stretch and now the difficulties are drastically reduced except for correctly identifying the way to go given the faded and sporadic signs. You constantly lose altitude trying to keep the track until you reach a junction where on the right with the 505 you return to the Hut VII Alpini, instead we remain on the CAI 511 downhill following for Mariano. We go down first among the meadows, then in the wood passing next to the dated one Casera Medassa Shelter (1342 m). We continue in the pleasant path in the wood grafting on CAI 507 always keeping the right towards the Mariano Bridge. We reach the bridge and then backwards on CAI 501 route in the approach towards Case Bortot (3h 30 'from the summit of Pelf - 11h 30' total).
The Marino Guardiano Aided path is a route that from the technical point of view of the aided sections is to be considered of medium difficulty with the most demanding passages in the initial stretch near Forcella Marmol. However, these relatively limited technical difficulties must not be misleading. Despite the not excessive altitude we are talking about a long, demanding trip with a grueling approach both for the difference in height and duration with a real ferrata inside (Ferrata Piero Rossi). The itinerary is recommended only for expert hikers and must be scheduled with stable weather, stretching out in a rather isolated place and, although there is the foothold of a couple of shelters along the way, it can cause serious consequences to be caught in bad weather at mid-trip, for example on the peak of the Pelf. It is advisable to divide the trip in two days, for example by staying in the Rifugio VII Alpini or at the Shelter near the Forcella Marmol.
The Marino Guardiano Aided path climbs from Forcella Marmol to the Pelf. The itinerary includes a long approach and a demanding ring return. The area is ideal for combining several aided itineraries, in particular to climb to the top of the Schiara you can use the Ferrata Mormol or combine the Ferrata Berti with the Zacchi or the Sperti. We talk about generally difficult and exposed routes. The Zacchi is perhaps the most demanding via ferrata from a technical point of view, while the Sperti is a long itinerary with interesting passages on the ridge. Concluding the area lends itself very well to multi-day itineraries while maintaining an alpine character of the routes.
If, on the other hand, you want to proceed towards shorter aided routes without long approaches and returns, a few kilometers from Belluno you can go up towards Cadore where we meet in rapid succession the Ferrata Parete dei Falchi, the Ferrata to the Val Gallin Rock Gyma and la Ferrata della Memoria al Vajont.
Approach: 6:30 h
Ferrata: 1:30 h
Itinerary: 11:30 h
Via Ferrata gap: 340 m
Route difference: 1805 m
Max altitude: 2502 m
Length: 22 Km
Mountain Group: Dolomites of Zoldo